In Paris, the Drag Scene Sets Fashion Ablaze

In Paris, the Drag Scene Sets Fashion Ablaze

There is no drag culture without extravagant stage outfits: in a small exhibition, the École Supérieure des Arts et Métiers de la Mode (Esmod) honors, until February 27, the work of three talented former students, whose creations have been worn by queens from the show Drag Race France.

Kam Hugh, discovered in the first season of Drag Race France, wears a candy-pink mermaid dress designed by Miss Boo, who graduated from Esmod in 2016. (Jean-Ranobrac)

The rue Catherine de La Rochefoucauld in the 9th arrondissement of Paris had not seen such a display of extravagance in nearly two centuries. The Nouvelle Athènes district, once a haven for artists and supporters of French romanticism and now a bourgeois neighborhood, served as the backdrop on Thursday, February 6, for a gathering of drag culture enthusiasts invited to discover a small exhibition organized by Esmod.

"L’Art du Drag: Trois Regards Mode" focuses on three silhouettes created by three former students, who share their experiences in ten-minute video interviews.

Presented in the atrium of an impressive early 20th-century building, the ensembles embody different facets of the drag scene that Drag Race France has popularized in recent years: Miss Boo plays with humor, Kitty Space, revealed in the second season of the show, evokes her Asian and French origins, while Maxime Arthur (class of 2017) and his brand Drapeau Blanc focus on the reveal, the art of unexpectedly unveiling one or more additional outfits during a performance.

The latter designed a dual-faceted outfit: a draped dress and a corset topped with a powder pink glittering torso, worn by Cookie Kunty, a key figure in the drag scene.

"The reveal is a category of drag performance in its own right," explains Jean-Baptiste Pennel, visual design coordinator at Esmod, who suggested the idea for this mini-exhibition to Sylvie Marot, director of the school's art, culture, and heritage department, to "engage with the many LGBTQIA+ students at Esmod," he recalls.

"The reveal, which here means transformation, consists of the performing drag queen, often during a lip-sync, pulling on an element that completely transforms their outfit into something else."

Minaudière

The dress created by Miss Boo, who graduated from Esmod in 2016, pays homage to the early morning after a party.

Worn by Kam Hugh, discovered in the first season of Drag Race France, the candy-pink mermaid dress, inspired by quilted comforters, was designed for a runway challenge on the show themed "The Morning After the Party." It is topped with red satin and accessorized with a pill-shaped minaudière by designer Yaz Bukey. Kam Hugh also wears an impressive wig crafted by Christophe Mecca.

The look by Kitty Space (Esmod graduate of 2016), revealed in the 2023 season of the France Télévisions show, references the performer's dual culture:

"This look is truly me, in the sense that I am of Vietnamese origin and was adopted by a French family. I wanted to merge Asian pagodas, like those appearing on the wig created by The Pretty Wig, dragons found in various Asian countries, red which symbolizes happiness in China, and gold, a symbol of opulence very reminiscent of Versailles, as well as the hoop skirts of the 17th century and other bustle skirts. I love bold, structured silhouettes, very Mugler."

The gowns created by the three Esmodians are on display for free until February 27.

"L’Art du Drag: Trois Regards Mode," at Esmod, 12 rue Catherine de La Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris, until February 27.